Today’s story is by Matthew Ziegler, a Brooklyn resident and all-around winner. Below is untitled, a voice driven piece about a man who has something to prove. Constantly on the move, he feels the need to cement his presence, showcasing it to whomever will notice, whether that be a fellow passenger or a surly bartender. Enjoy!
untitled
by
Matthew Ziegler
I’ve recently developed a love of airline lounges. I used to imagine that I was drawn to the convenience on long layovers, the free drinks, a quiet nest in which to check email and read the paper. But the more I fly the more I realize that what I actually like is being seen. I don’t mean by the people in the lounge; they are, nearly without exception, insufferably dull folks, talking loudly on their cell phones about some string that Frank pulled so that they could get on the 11:05 and go see the Parmalat guys on the way back in. The only ones with any character are generally too drunk to be of much use.
No, I mean that I like being seen by the passengers outside the lounge – those wretches with whom I’ve just spent three hours in coach, lining up and sitting down and following orders and pining for a beverage cart and quietly resenting one another, as I swoop my bags across the pedestrian traffic in the terminal towards those frosted doors next to the Chik-Fil-A. I am better than you. My seat next to all of you on the plane, with its occasional wafts of urinal cake and its sagging marsupial pouch stuffed with advertisements for resin garden-giraffes, did not adequately communicate my status. I am better than you. That’s why I’m walking through these frosted doors, which you cannot see through, and you are looking for Burger King. I may emerge shortly for some Burger King as well, because the lounges do not actually serve meals, but I will leave my bags behind in a cubby so that you all realize that I am a gentleman of leisure and taste. And I might walk out chewing a pretzel rod or noisily sucking the last traces of whiskey out of a plastic cup of ice, and gaze upon the terminal for a moment just outside the door, like a man emerging onto his front lawn in his robe looking for where the paper landed, just in case you failed to recognize that I am without bags and at ease. It is for this simple pleasure that I pay $50 at the front desk for a day-pass.
My favorite airline lounge is the Delta Sky Club at JFK. It’s actually pretty crummy, as airline lounges go – there’s a little whiff of Penn Station in all of New York’s transport orifices – but by its very crumminess it tolerates the continued presence of a rather surly bartender I know as the Michelada Woman. The Michelada Woman would never make it in one of the glitzy, suburban Sky Clubs in Atlanta or Minneapolis. When you ask for a drink she responds in Spanish, possibly in obscenities. She calls me “blondie,” or perhaps she’s referring to the beer I typically order. I don’t speak Spanish, and neither does anyone else in the Sky Club.
Michelada Woman has a right to be upset, I suppose: in a free-drink environment, few people have the presence of mind to tip. I always do, but I suspect it’s too little, too late. Michelada Woman hates us. But I like her.
I call her Michelada Woman because she never wore her name tag and she once told a patron who was drunkenly hitting on her, in my presence, that she is from Honduras. “What do they drink in Honduras?” he slurred. “Micheladas,” she answered curtly.
I want people to like me, especially those who hold the keys to the liquor cabinet, so I chimed in and beamed that I love micheladas!
She paused and squinted at me: “what do you know about micheladas?”
I told her eagerly, and untruthfully, that I’ve been to Central America “lots of times,” which only made me look more like a travel-jackass, I’m sure. The other patron, hoping not to lose his toehold in the conversation, asked me how one makes a michelada. I was suddenly in over my head.
I’ve been to a number of places that serve something called a “michelada,” and they all do it differently. Most of them are in Park Slope. But during my two actual visits to Central America, one as part of a cruise, I’ve had something that seems to involve beer and tomato juice, with, I’m pretty certain, a dash of lime juice and salt. Kind of like a Bloody Mary, but with beer. I went for it: “You pour tomato juice and lime and salt into a beer—“
“—this is not how you make a michelada!” she screeched. Fuck. I hate losing the respect of a bartender – especially one who pours free drinks against her will. Hoping to regain her good favor, I begged forgiveness and asked how one makes a michelada. She puffed up, like a peacock. “Well, first you pour all of this,” waving her hand over the Worcestershire and the Tabasco and the bitters, “and then the lime and the salt and the beer,” as though that was somehow an art form that I never could have grasped.
Simple enough. Hoping to prove that I really do know about and like this drink, I asked if she could make one.
“No.”
“Why not?”
“Because I have no limes.”
I had actually noticed this before. The Sky Club does not supply limes for its bar. The Sky Clubs provide for their patrons, inevitably: Dewar’s & Jack Daniels, some nameless vodka, Beefeater gin, and some sort of white rum. And then something stupid, like Campari. And then there’s Budweiser, Amstel Light, and Heineken in bottles; canned Minute Maid orange juice and a Canada Dry lineup and Mr. & Mrs. T’s Bloody Mary Mix; jumbo-bottle California red and white; Worcestershire Sauce and Tabasco and Angostura bitters. And lemon wedges and olives and little red swizzle-sticks adorned with the Delta logo. But never limes.
“What if I brought you a lime?” I asked the Michelada Woman, hoping she’d stop scowling at me. I prodded, and got her to agree in unfriendly formalities that next time I flew through JFK I would bring her a lime, and she would make me a real michelada. It would have to include Amstel, she stipulated, and that still wasn’t really going to be “the best” gringo beer for making a michelada.
Needless to say, I forgot all about the Michelada Woman. I tend to say things in order to be liked by those around me, with no regard to the long-term consequences. Therefore I was unprepared, a month or so later, when I arrived back at the Sky Club with no fruit and a powerful urge for booze.
“Where is my lime?” She demanded when I asked for a Dewar’s. “I thought we had an arrangement.”
Shit, I thought, now I pissed off the Michelada Woman. I hurriedly probed my brain for excuses. “They wouldn’t let me bring it through security.”
She squinted hard at me. “You tell me they won’t let you bring it through security?” I nodded eagerly. My palms began to sweat, as they do when I utter even the most innocuous lies. “Then I tell you I don’t have no Dewar’s,” she responded plainly, turning away.
Being coy, old girl, are you? I played along. “Oh well,” I said, glancing at the three-quarters-full bottle just out of my reach across the bar and panging for it and trying to formulate something that would charm her enough to just pour me a glass of it and leave me be. I went with, “How about a rum and coke and a Dewar’s, then?” Pure gold, dipshit.
She swung back around at me: “I don’t have no Dewar’s, I don’t have no rum, I don’t have no coke. Bar is closed goodbye.” She shooed me with her hands and then strutted off to the Employees Only room behind the bar.
I stood, perplexed, until it became clear that she wasn’t just going to get me a fresh glass. I wandered to the back of the lounge, where they have the massaging chairs, unsure how to proceed. I had, moments earlier, forked over $50 at the front desk with the intention of recovering at least half that in gratis liquor before my connection. From my perch, I watched as Michelada Woman returned to the bar, where an elderly couple had arrived, and poured them each a glass of wine. She did not look at me. I pondered swallowing the loss and heading out to the T.G.I.Friday’s across the concourse, but that seemed ridiculous. I wasn’t about to complain to the other staff or try and circumvent her – what would I say? Force this woman to pour me a drink? Anyway, it was apparent that they were all terrified of her, too.
And so it came to be that I sat, chastened and dry, for the next two hours and surfed the internet. Michelada Woman did not look at me when I finally gathered my things and exited.
It was only then that I saw that my flight had been canceled. I stood in line at the rebooking counter, where you wait for little red phones to some call center, with the rest of the unwashed plebs hoping to snag a seat aboard the flight that boarded in another four hours. Upon reaching the desk, however, I was informed that, by whatever incalculable rubric that they use to make decisions, I had been upgraded to first class.
First class. To London. That meant a flat bed. Even business class has a flat bed and its indulgences had heretofore been beyond my wildest imaginings. Those guys get to get on the airplane first and then sit there, with glasses of champagne, while everyone else totes his luggage through the thickly-carpeted boulevards between their seats. It ‘s like making people on Section 8 drive through a rich neighborhood before they can get to their housing assignment.
The first class folks, however, get something more perfectly engineered. When they first step onto the plane, where everyone, including the business class crowd, is directed right, the stewardess (always female) pulls back a curtain and directs you to the left. She then closes it behind you. In other words, this is not just look-at-my-luxury status. This is you-can’t-see-my-luxury status. Hills of L.A. shit. Private helipad.
And, best of all, there’s another set of frosted doors inside the Sky Club where only the international first-class passengers may enter. The gate within the gates. The Sky Flagship. I had spent my life staring longingly at these folks, with their marble fountains and player pianos and premium spirits twinkling at me from a self-serve bar every time the doors opened.
And now I got to sail up to the electronic door at which I scan my boarding pass, right past Michelada Woman, and enter the land where I didn’t have ask some hag for a Dewar’s. I poured myself a Glenlivet. In a pint glass if I fucking well felt like it. It was bliss. I don’t think Michelada Woman was looking when those doors silently slid shut behind me, which sucks. But oh well: now I could get well and doused without having to bury my face in anyone’s loins.
No surprise twist here: it was exquisite. It was as though they had assembled a team of psychologists to study my weaknesses and exploit them in lounge-form. The guys in here aren’t Chuck from Abilene; they’re Marcel from Luxembourg, barking orders in German over a cell phone that clearly hasn’t come to America yet. There’s a man in bright West African robes sitting with what appears to be his finance minister. There’s Veuve Clicquot and aged cabernet. Private showers with hand-laid mosaic and rain-heads and little tubes of pineapple facial scrub and organic cucumber toothpaste. And a masseuse. And I’m pretty sure the 85-pound woman pacing around having a phone-fight with her boyfriend is Gianni Versace’s niece, because there’s a picture of her in the copy of Esquire I’m reading.
So, in other words, fuck the Michelada Woman. All the bartenders are friendly back here in Flagship country, because we pour our own fucking drinks. Enjoy the Dewar’s you withheld, you old bitch. I’m having something I don’t exactly recognize that’s probably much nicer. It’s called Lavalugeen. It sounds like a snot-chunk made of molten rock, but it’s complex and has saddle-leather and maple and it got a 92 in Wine Spectator, so fuck yourself. Maybe I’ll take a piss on your junior-high little free-Popov bar on my way out. Don’t be surprised if it smells like Grey Goose for a while.
Unfortunately, she wasn’t there when I left. It occurred to me that she had probably finished her shift while I was eating desiccated chicken breast and choking back all that peat-mossy-tasting scotch. I was disappointed; once again I had hinged my greatest enjoyment of luxury on who was watching me. I might as well have been drinking some noxious aged liquor in my living room. Oh well.
Off I went to London. It was nice. The trip itself wasn’t important. I was so hammered by the time I left the lounge that the stewardesses refused to serve me once I boarded the plane. I didn’t care. I just held my finger on that little electronic recline button until I had a bed. Then I passed out until someone put my seat back upright and we landed at Heathrow. I took a cab to the London office of my company, where I spent the next three days sorting out some IT bullshit that I easily could have done by hiring a guy who works at Best Buy.
As the days went by my anger at the Michelada Woman subsided and I resolved to impress her with a fresh, waxy lime upon my return layover. I would make one more attempt to squeeze a drink out of her and rekindle the stranger-friendship that had almost been within my clutches.
Unfortunately, they don’t have anything too outrageously juicy-looking in the shops in London. The best I could do was one of those plastic mesh bags full of rather aged looking limes from, of all places, Florida. But it would do. She would understand. I would win her over with quantity.
And so, I boarded my plane – back in the back where no one knows your name, sandwiched between a broad-shouldered girl with a Villanova Volleyball sweatshirt and an breathy man who described himself as a “professional roulette player.” He spent most of the flight explaining his system, whose many mathematical incongruities did not appear to have fazed him. He said he likes to game in Europe because they have double zeroes, or they don’t have double zeroes, or something, and because the wheels at the Royal Grosvenor have been due for the last eight weeks. And that’s why, in his carry-on, he had forty pages of printouts from the Grosvenor’s roulette hits over the last month, stoking the dreams of what appeared to be the casino industry’s chief financier.
Although, I suppose everyone is a gambler, no matter what class you’re in. In the back, they rely on roulette hits and mutual funds and 401Ks. The folks in front are just standing closer to the table – close enough to swipe some of their chips back if all hell breaks loose and it turns out no one will buy an acre of former Target parking lot for $3.2 million. But they’re all gamblers. Even the airlines are gamblers. Southwest, the Greyhound of the skies, ended up in a position to offer the most legroom of any domestic airline because they had taken out a risky petroleum-futures contract with Conoco shortly before September 11, which permitted them to lift planes for 75% of the cost of every other carrier for years to come. While American and the rest of the real carriers were squeezing extra seats into the lavatories in order to break even, Southwest was tossing out entire rows and packing free Millers into its carts.
But, at any rate, this guy I was sitting next to was a fucking idiot, and I employed every strategy in the book to try and keep him from wafting any more Winston-wash my way. I put on headphones, I pulled out my laptop, I pretended to watch Love, Actually, but I was stuck. I suffered with the masses. It all made me that much more excited about my reunion with Michelada Woman at the Sky Club, where these gross people don’t exist.
* * *
They took everything. They dogged my bag – I thought those beagles were there for bombs or drugs – and took the limes. Then they fined me $400 because I had lied on my customs form and said I wasn’t importing any plant-matter. I tried to argue: these came from Florida! I was just returning the god damned things to their native home. No dice. At least they had the decency to let me put the fine on my credit card, so I got some miles for it.
Needless to say, I was not looking forward to seeing Michelada Woman again. But, after having spent $400 bringing her her god damned limes, I was due for a drink. Otherwise, I resolved, I’d do everything in my power to have her fired.
I paid my $50, I entered, I saw Michelada Woman shaking a cocktail behind the bar. I approached, steeling my nerves, and told her I wanted a Dewar’s on the rocks.
She cussed under her breath in Spanish, then poured the drink and passed it across the bar.
She didn’t even remember me. The Michelada Woman didn’t remember me. This woman, who had caused me so much angst, didn’t damn well remember me.
“I tried bringing you limes,” I told her.
“You what?” she asked.
“I tried to bring you a lime, for the michelada.”
She squinted at me. “What do you know about micheladas?”
Jesus Christ, I thought. “I brought you a bag of fucking limes because you wouldn’t serve me last time because we had an agreement and they charged me four hundred fucking dollars because I tried to bring you limes.”
She paused, then a glint of recognition crossed her face. “Ah, you’re the boy who is going to bring me the lime for the michelada.”
“Yes.”
“Who charges you four hundred dollars?”
“Customs.” And then, for good measure, I added, “aduanas.”
“Ah, las aduanas!” And then she took off on that in Spanish for a minute. The tirade was momentarily heated. But she softened. “You try to bring me the limes and they don’t let you?”
“Yes.”
“That was very sweet.”
I slid the glass back across the bar. “Can I make this a double?”
“Con mucho gusto.” She smiled.